Thursday, September 29, 2005

Rome: DAY 17

SEVENTEENTH DAY
September 29, 2005

I experienced a slight energy dip yesterday when doing my daily journal but today, today, I feel really good.  It is worth mentioning for the last time that in September the weather has been benign, lovely, although sometimes hot and humid in the late afternoon.  All that said, the light is going away earlier each day and the cool down comes faster.   I understand, that it gets very wet in late October and November.  We await the Gods. 

We have been picking a new spot to go sightseeing everyday.  Because it has lots of stairs, I have been avoiding the Campidoglio for the better part of this week.  Last Sunday, however, because the Capitoline Museum is on that plaza, I went to see an exhibit and found the steps were not too bad.  Three amazing buildings, all designed by Michelangelo surround the Piazza. It is a must for any tourist coming to Rome, three stars in every guidebook.  The old Senate building has been turned around to face the Piazza (it used to look down on the Roman Forum) and it was built according to Michelangelo’s plan after his death.  The intricate design on the Piazza floor is his as well. And from the back of the Senate building is the most famous view of the Imperial Forum.  It is so elegant and striking as to be beyond my power to describe.  The Museum is made up of the two other buildings on the Plaza and they are look-alikes They house the Capitoline collection.  From the roof of the museum building on the right, there is a terrace that overlooks most of the ancient ruins and churches of Rome.  I would call it one of the great romantic date places in Rome.    If my description doesn’t suit, you should come and see it for yourself.  We hung around for about an hour and decided that the museum collection was for another day. 

Walking back down the graduated steps of the hill we consulted our little red Trattoria book.  It is almost impossible to use as it is not divided by any sensible method, neither geography nor type of food.  Anyway, too tough for me to figure out, so I must look at almost every entry and finally found one that we thought looked good. It is in the Piazza del Pigna between Gesu and Chestini, very near an apartment that we like, except we have to sell our unborn children to pay the rent.  In case you are worried, Kimberly says no children are on the way.  This is a sweet little place and the food was as good as I have had in Rome.  I had the Antipasti and Kim and I split a great Clam Pasta.  In a moment of madness, I also ordered a Capressi Salad and was rewarded with the best Buffalo Mozzarela since we arrived.  Too Much, I need my Precor.  We walked all the way back to our bus in Trastevere in order to feel better about lunch.  We included the Campo de Fiori on the way.  Lots of legwork. 


Another new friend. Mario Teleri, teaches printmaking at Temple University in Rome.  He invited us to his studio and out to one of his favorite Pizza joints.  The studio was great and reminded me of mine in Sonoma, not too clean but very usable.  He has two intaglio presses much like mine but much more room for it all.  Still, his presses are in the basement and mine in the light of our garden.  There were lots of artists working and finishing up.  Mario’s partner, Luce, does not speak English.  She too is an artist, teaching print in Milan and making Jewelry in Rome.  Kimbo that great social wonder, kept the conversation all going and the pizza was tasty.  It was an early evening for everybody by Italian standards, and they drove us all the way back up the hill to our cabin.  Mario has been very generous, and I have been offered to teach one of his classes at Temple on the subject of papermaking.  Last night I wished I spoke Italian. 

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