Rome: DAY 1

FIRST DAY

September 13, 2005

We made it to Rome, what a surprise.  I am sitting in Studio 303 at the American Academy overlooking the entire city of Rome just over the top of the hill from the neighborhood, Trastevere.  We are currently waiting for the computer tech to come up and make us Internet ready.  We have already met many of the fellows and visiting artists.  Yesterday, when we came in from the Airport they were just about to begin what they call the five-minute presentations that each fellow gives to start their fellowship year.  It was all very interesting and I made it through the first 6 presenters before I felt the need to go to my room and shower and unpack.  Of course, the amazing Kimberly made it through all 15, just too much sweat, anxiety, and the need for a little down time forced me to the room.  Tonight there will be another 15 presenters and I trust I will make it the whole way.  The group of Rome prizewinners is interesting and seemingly strong.  They all seem young to me.  The subjects they are studying are varied and highly detailed as well as intellectual.  Each prize has been given by some group or honors some previous fellow.  There are two sides to the group, the arts (music, painting, architecture, etc) and the humanities (literature, history, medieval studies, etc).  I am not Fellow, but a Visiting Scholar.  They also have a category for Visiting Artists.  We are people who are not applying for a Rome Prize but for admission for a shorter period of time and perhaps a less academic pursuit.  It clear that the program is first and foremost for the fellows.  Kim tried to sign up for the free Italian lessons and was rejected because it is a perk for the fellows and their spouses.  She will try to find a school someplace close off campus.

Of little interest to anyone but me is the description of our journey to Rome.  Of course, the main thing is that we arrived safely and without too much jet lag. But, not without some of the usual things that make a nervous traveler into a certifiable nut case.  First let me say that United sucks.  Nothing in particular but always that low morale and bad vibe that you get from their people.  I must say that they have had lots of disappointments in the last several years but still, it gets old and the attitude is palpable.  We got to Denver and found out that our plane to Frankfurt was late, also that we would not make our connection.  No problem they said but when we got to Germany just getting rebooked in this Big Mac sized airport was no easy task.  We had our first real traveling spat, ended up in three different lines and then walked about a mile to our gate in time to catch the next plane to Rome.  No big deal except for the heat, anxiety, and general sense of having to go too far.  But wait until you hear this.  When we got to Rome and dragged our bags to the Taxi stand, the drivers had a fight about who would take us to our lodging. We must have looked for all the world like the biggest marks this side of Timbuktu.   Literally, guys were swinging at each other, shouting, pushing and shoving (including me) and in general doing the kinds of things that make me crazy.  Then, I got really irritated and started trying to separate the drivers and shouting at them at the same time.  Kimberly could not believe me.   It all settled down and in retrospect seems funny but it would have been hard to convince a tired traveler at that moment.  Then surprise of surprises, the driver really screwed me on the fare.  Oh well, just part of what will become a steep but steady learning curve

At last we arrived at our home base for the next two months. The storied American Academy in Rome.  Such a monumental building that it takes your breath away and you ask yourself what you are doing in this place. The grounds and gardens are fantastic, big and beautiful.  In lots of ways, exactly what we had been led to expect.  Perched on the old wall that was built to protect the ancient city and on the top of the highest hill in Rome, it is a commanding and regal presence.  Our room is a large studio overlooking the city.  It is very Spartan but clean and comfortable.  The bedroom is in a loft and there is plenty of space for both of us.  The floor is a very cool red tile and the furnishings look like a bad garage sale.  We are happy. If dinner last night was any example of the cooking we will be eating out a lot.  We did not come for the food at the Academy and the whole of Rome is at our culinary call.  We lasted until about 10PM and met many of the residents.  Our sleep was untroubled and all in all a very successful first day.