Rome: DAY 11

ELEVENTH DAY

September 23, 2005

I think yesterday was a rest day.  I spent much of the day reading from various resource books about the history of paper.  The best one is an older book by the god of papermaking, Dard Hunter, it is called, Papermaking The History and Technique of an Ancient Craft.  It was first published in 1943 and remains to this day the bible of those who are interested in this complicated and beautiful old craft.  I have read all or parts of this book many times but continue to learn.  I am getting ready to make a foray into the library of the Academy to see what they have on hand.  For sure, the rare book room has some old paper.  The librarian is very helpful, and I should have access when I decide to go forward.  In the mid afternoon I took a wonderful meditation walk through the large lawns and gardens of this fantastic villa.  It was a complete revival of spirit and gave me lots of energy for the balance of the day. 

Kimberly has been insisting that I go to all the lectures, which normally take place in the early evening before dinner.  Last night I went.  The topic of the lecture was Italian Architecture in the African colonies  (Italy’s African Colonies). I must say it was another good rest as the lecturer had some 82 slides of some very non-descript buildings.  Not an impressive performance.

What to do about food takes up part of everyday.  If we stay at the Academy for lunch or dinner we have the benefit of being with lots of interesting Fellows and other visitors.  To say that the food could be better would be to say it all.  So, it is always a question of whether to stay in or go out.  We have been going out much of the time and even cooked in our floor kitchen one night.  I must say that the Italian chickens as prepared by the master chef, Kimberly, are better then what we can buy at home. Last night we went to Fontanone.  It is a great old Trastevere kitchen near the Sisto Bridge and just next door to Checcio.  There are lots of good places to go, but we had a wonderful evening at Fontanone on our visit to Rome last year.  The Pizza is really terrific, thin tasty crust, fresh ingredients.  Lots of oil, good oil, makes it an outstanding treat.  I had a Capresse salad, tomato with fresh mozzarella, wow.  That’s it.  We had the obligatory gelato stop, even the smalls are almost too much and then a march up the steps to the Academy and our loft.  We have learned our way home and love that walk at night from the restaurants.  Even though the steps are steep, it feels good to work some of that food off.  Narrow winding streets, very quiet, all things closing down for the night. Very romantic. It feels like we are in Rome.