Thursday, October 27, 2005

Rome: DAY 45 BIG CITY, BRIGHTS LIGHTS

FORTY-FIFTH DAY
BIG CITY, BRIGHTS LIGHTS
October 27-28

It seems that the burst of activity around both teaching a paper-making class at Temple U and then the next day taking a group of fellow travelers to make some art at Mario’s studio has left me exhausted. My new favorite hangout is my gym in Monteverde. Even though I speak no Italian that anyone can understand, I do know how to work the equipment and have even developed a routine that includes free weights, machines and cardio exercise. The issue of gaining weight was not such a big deal for the first month because we were walking everywhere, but when I got the scooter the walking was considerably diminished. So, now I fear the pounds that might come back. I think we are eating in a healthy way, but I feel an escalation in the making. When that happens, I workout harder to compensate, although it remains true that we can never out exercise our food. At least, I can’t. Using the gym as my foil, I work out like my life depends on it. I am using Kimberly’s I-shuffle and for some reason the tunes that keep repeating themselves center around Bob Dylan. The fact is I probably used to like him, but he seems dated and juvenile. I keep switching the shuffle; she must have 20 songs by Dylan on the thing. Oh well, at least I got the workout. Now if I can keep from having a gelato today that would be good.

Wednesday evening there was a lecture by one of the Academy’s former directors. Her expertise is in the mendicant orders like the Franciscans and the Dominicans. I am not sure why I am going to this esoteric narrow event, but the main theme I do understand. Did these special orders sell good places to be buried in their churches to the rich guys? I guess you are wondering what the answer to that question is? I too have a spot in Colma, but I would like it to be even better. Who should I bribe to improve my position? In Italy, it was all about how physically close your plot could get to the Pope or your favorite Cardinal, even St. Peter. I guess that means Berlusconi (the Prime Minister) will be buried under the Alter at St. Peters. He has lots of dough.

At the very same event the Arts Director, Dana Prescott introduced me to a woman who was trying to give her intaglio press to the American Academy. They already have one that they have very little intention of using and so she declined. Dana introduced her so that she could ask me if I knew how to take the press apart. She has repeatedly called to discuss this with me, but I keep ducking. Presuming that I did know how to take it apart, what would happen then? They weigh a lo t- it could be as much as 1,200 lbs. I am bobbing and weaving.

Last night the Academy was a flutter with activity. In the event of the season, they had an opening of a photography exhibit and collection of a wealthy American collector whose name I have forgotten. All the bright lights of the Rome art scene were in attendance. I do not know much about photography but some names were familiar including Nan Goldin, Matthew Barney, and Cindy Sherman. We invited Christine Insley and her friend Valantina Bonomo to join us for the show. Everybody who makes art in Rome and can speak English teaches at one time or another at Temple because it has a large art program abroad for students. They all came to the show that was curated by one of their fellow teachers - a nice group of people. The young man who was my Teaching Assistant for my class was there and thrilled me by telling Kimberly how much fun everybody had. Then in another gratifying moment, the Dean asked me to come back next semester. It made me feel good about the effort I made to get ready. Many of the people who came to the show made an effort to dress up and the Academy at night is truly glowing. There was to be large private dinner for the collector across the street at the Villa Aurelia. Once again we failed to make the cut. Instead, we stayed at our own dining room for a late and quiet dinner with a smaller group of fellows and visitors. It seems so strange that we only have a week left here. My research goes not so well, but I am hoping to pump it up when we come back from our trip to the South Coast of Spain. It feels right to move on and I never liked the food anyway, but there’s just a slight jittery feeling about giving up the perks of Academy life. We will be on our on in our desperate little apartment in the ghetto, and the mama cried.


Just a follow-up note. The woman with the press caught me this morning. I told her I wouldn’t take the machine apart unless she gave it to Temple. She has agreed, so I have brokered an old intaglio press for my buddy, Mario’s printing program. We will go to her home on Monday to take it apart. One can only hope that I don’t drop it on my toe.

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