Rome: DAY 49 CATACOMBS AND GOOD DEEDS

FORTY-NINTH DAY

CATACOMBS AND GOOD DEEDS

October 31, 2005

Kimberly, the great entertainer, has decided to do a dinner party at the Academy for some of our pals.  On Sundays because everything is closed you must use the supermarkets for shopping.  She has invited four of the fellows to join us and of course they are thrilled because there is no food served here on Sundays.  We arise to another golden day and hit the market for the Sunday feast.  Most of our friends know that when they come to our house it is either Salmon or Salmon with sausages.  But here, we have morphed to chicken that in these parts is wonderful even at our supermarket.  We shop early and include some local wines in our purchase.  Without being a butt, let me say it is not Sonoma.  The clerk at the register is surly at best and refuses to speak to us even in Italian.  We make it out the door and return to the cabin.  Our goal is to get to the Catacombs and back in time to get ready for dinner.

We map out our way to the San Calisto catacomb.  It is on the Antica Appia, a road that was constructed by an early Roman Emperor in 300BC. Our book says you can see the old wagon marks of the wagons that drove this trail 2000 years ago.  It is also the site of the church where Paul met Jesus.  Paul was on the way out of town and Jesus was coming in.  Jesus was going to be crucified again and Paul, who was trying to get out of town, was mortified to admit that to Jesus who asked him Quo Vadis?  Whither goest Thou?  Paul turned around and went back into Rome where the Romans promptly killed him.  There is lots of sacrifice around this place to go with all the antiquities.  When we got to the old road, we were prevented from entering because no cars or scooters are allowed.  This turned out to be a sort of Roman deal because after we parked the scooter and started walking we were passed by hundreds of cars and scooters who knew what to say to the cops.  The road is narrow and rutted, old and decaying but beautiful and symbolically represents Rome’s outreach to the rest of the world.  You could travel from Rome to Africa, Brindisi, or the Aegean Sea on this highway. Imagine that, over 2000 years ago. 

The catacombs of San Calisto were not much for me.  A giant underground cemetery that has been looted and vandalized for hundreds of years.  Still, I suppose building underground to a depth of over 100 feet that long ago represents at least an engineering triumph. Kim soaks it in while I hope we get out before the next earthquake.  Walking back to the Motorino along the Appian Way is special and we easily get home in time to read, study, and cook. 

Our guests are delighted with Chicken and fresh everything from green beans to peppers, first course of zucchini pasta with Reggio Parmesan and some decent wine.  The conversation flows around the latest architecture to the books we are reading to life in academia. We finish with some Grappa.  I can’t believe that we could pull off this kind of entertainment in our limited quarters and with the communal kitchen down the hall, but somehow Kimberly puts it all together.

This morning Anne Ponti picks up my friend Mario Tellari and me.  She is the woman who has “hired” me to take down her intaglio press. We find the press on her terrace.  She lives in a wonderful 60’s apartment building in Monteverde.  It must be 5000 sq feet with a terrace that overlooks Dora Pamphilli Park.  It would be like being in a high rise around Golden Gate Park.  The apartment looks like not much has happened since she moved in and the press has been sitting exposed on her terrace for a long time.  The deal is that I have brokered her gift to Temple U in return for Mario and I getting the press off the terrace.  Without going into detail, it is evident that this job is going to take some time.  There is a worker on the roof who helps us for a while, but then picks up his air drill and starts tearing up the terrace tiles.  The noise is heavy, but we slog on and 4 hours later we pull the main roller and the job is complete.  I feel sorry for Mario, but he is glad to get the press for Temple.  It is a win for all concerned, but I feel like I fell into a grease pit.  One of the best parts of being here is the idea that you can really be of service or help.  I am sure Anne would have somehow gotten the press off the terrace, but now it will really have a new and useful life at a place where people will appreciate it.  I feel good. 

Rome: DAY 47 KIKI, AUDREY AND GREGORY

FORTY-SEVENTH DAY

KIKI, AUDREY AND GREGORY

October 29-30

After the fancy art opening at the Academy, going down into Trastevere for the Kiki Smith opening was small potatoes.  The crowd had exploded out into the street by the time we got there.  The gallery was rather small, but they had commandeered the courtyard across the street as the wine bar.  It was Friday night and the traffic was intense.  We had been looking forward to seeing the work, but even though we thought it was good it was too busy to get a real look.  Ms. Smith was there and we met her.  She was using Nepalese paper for her drawings and it looked hard to draw on this medium.  We bailed out early and for the first time in recorded history, we decided to skip dinner.  It was a tough decision and took all of my will power and I hope I never have to do it again.

It was made somewhat easier because we were among the first in the TV room.  I still don’t know how to work the system and haven’t even seen the news for weeks.  We talked our young fellow travelers into watching “Roman Holiday” starring Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck.  It is the story of a princess who falls for a commoner and I remember seeing it and thinking that Hepburn was so lovely and charming. While that is certainly true the story is now dated, but the views of Rome are unmatched.  Kimberly was shrieking with excitement every time Peck’s scooter got near the ruins of ancient Rome or something she recognized.  In fact, there was a scene where the two lovers drove by the Theatro Marcello and Apollo’s Temple with the old Synagogue in the background.  We will literally be steps from these monumental places in our new apartment.  Fortunately, Peck does not take advantage of Hepburn when she gets drunk so her virtue is intact.  Perhaps not the way the movie would end in 2005.  This movie was made in 1960.  The ruins were made from 300BC to the present. 

We were so excited by the film that Saturday morning we hopped on the Motorino and went to the Roman Forum for our own self guided walk and talk.  The light is perfect and the crowds are thinning.  I take lots of pictures in the incredible light and we lounge our way around the Forum.  Rome exerts such a powerful historical pull on us.  Kim reads our guides and I hangout and listen.  A fine moment. 

We remount the scooter and head for the food market at Testaccio.  We have heard from long term Americans in Rome that it is a great place to shop.  The market is a covered square block crammed with every possible kind of food stand.  We walk the entire place looking for the best produce and meat.  We end up loaded.  This Sunday we will cook in and so we buy ourselves a couple of steaks.  The meat looks perfect and reminds me of the old standby T-Bone.  Here the cut is called Florentine.  We don’t have a grill so this could be a disaster, but the meat guys are funny and with the help of several of the other patrons we get exactly what we need.  I am planning an American dinner, but of course we must include pasta.  

Late lunch is a must.  Naturally, we miss the church on the Piazza Testaccio by seconds and head for Anttica Forno, a spot given to us by one of the visitors who has lived in the neighborhood.  A great place for any meal and priced right but not a giveaway.  Since we have come for lunch just after 1PM the real crowd is entering about 2PM.  It is all about the family and they come together in large groups.  Grandfathers and kids, mothers and daughters, a complete assemblage numbering anywhere from 6 to 10.  Many kisses and exclamations follow, wine is served and a two hour production has begun. 

We stagger back to the Casa with our groceries and our swollen bodies promising never to eat again.  It is very quiet at the Academy.  That means really quiet; if the fellows are here, they are studying and working on their projects.  We saw the same woman who advised on our lunch and she came up to the room to look at my paper samples and the print catalog that I have with me.  She is working on a project about the way that water flows through Rome.  It is a complex project with topo maps, ground water tables, and various other tools.  Her project is scheduled to take about 10 years.  She has won lots of prizes including a Guggenheim and a Fulbright but scrambles to make ends meet by teaching when she runs out of grants.  I would guess she is about 50 and totally engaged in this work.  It made me feel better about my own lack of progress on my stated task to do some work on the history of paper in Western Civilization.  I certainly know more then I did when we came, but each scrap is hard won and it will take more time than we have here to finish.  I should be done within the ten year frame, allowing for some golf and a few vacations. 

We decide to walk into our little enclave of Monteverde for that elusive light dinner.  It shows up at a place called Vascello, a favorite of American Academy folks because of the friendly atmosphere and the good prices.  Light maybe somewhat of an exaggeration what with the pizza and all. I resolve to do better about food.  As we walk home, the temp keeps dropping.  Is this the beginning of winter and rain?

Rome: DAY 45 BIG CITY, BRIGHTS LIGHTS

FORTY-FIFTH DAY

BIG CITY, BRIGHTS LIGHTS

October 27-28

It seems that the burst of activity around both teaching a paper-making class at Temple U and then the next day taking a group of fellow travelers to make some art at Mario’s studio has left me exhausted. My new favorite hangout is my gym in Monteverde. Even though I speak no Italian that anyone can understand, I do know how to work the equipment and have even developed a routine that includes free weights, machines and cardio exercise. The issue of gaining weight was not such a big deal for the first month because we were walking everywhere, but when I got the scooter the walking was considerably diminished. So, now I fear the pounds that might come back. I think we are eating in a healthy way, but I feel an escalation in the making. When that happens, I workout harder to compensate, although it remains true that we can never out exercise our food. At least, I can’t. Using the gym as my foil, I work out like my life depends on it. I am using Kimberly’s I-shuffle and for some reason the tunes that keep repeating themselves center around Bob Dylan. The fact is I probably used to like him, but he seems dated and juvenile. I keep switching the shuffle; she must have 20 songs by Dylan on the thing. Oh well, at least I got the workout. Now if I can keep from having a gelato today that would be good.

Wednesday evening there was a lecture by one of the Academy’s former directors. Her expertise is in the mendicant orders like the Franciscans and the Dominicans. I am not sure why I am going to this esoteric narrow event, but the main theme I do understand. Did these special orders sell good places to be buried in their churches to the rich guys? I guess you are wondering what the answer to that question is? I too have a spot in Colma, but I would like it to be even better. Who should I bribe to improve my position? In Italy, it was all about how physically close your plot could get to the Pope or your favorite Cardinal, even St. Peter. I guess that means Berlusconi (the Prime Minister) will be buried under the Alter at St. Peters. He has lots of dough.

At the very same event the Arts Director, Dana Prescott introduced me to a woman who was trying to give her intaglio press to the American Academy. They already have one that they have very little intention of using and so she declined. Dana introduced her so that she could ask me if I knew how to take the press apart. She has repeatedly called to discuss this with me, but I keep ducking. Presuming that I did know how to take it apart, what would happen then? They weigh a lo t- it could be as much as 1,200 lbs. I am bobbing and weaving.

Last night the Academy was a flutter with activity. In the event of the season, they had an opening of a photography exhibit and collection of a wealthy American collector whose name I have forgotten. All the bright lights of the Rome art scene were in attendance. I do not know much about photography but some names were familiar including Nan Goldin, Matthew Barney, and Cindy Sherman. We invited Christine Insley and her friend Valantina Bonomo to join us for the show. Everybody who makes art in Rome and can speak English teaches at one time or another at Temple because it has a large art program abroad for students. They all came to the show that was curated by one of their fellow teachers - a nice group of people. The young man who was my Teaching Assistant for my class was there and thrilled me by telling Kimberly how much fun everybody had. Then in another gratifying moment, the Dean asked me to come back next semester. It made me feel good about the effort I made to get ready. Many of the people who came to the show made an effort to dress up and the Academy at night is truly glowing. There was to be large private dinner for the collector across the street at the Villa Aurelia. Once again we failed to make the cut. Instead, we stayed at our own dining room for a late and quiet dinner with a smaller group of fellows and visitors. It seems so strange that we only have a week left here. My research goes not so well, but I am hoping to pump it up when we come back from our trip to the South Coast of Spain. It feels right to move on and I never liked the food anyway, but there’s just a slight jittery feeling about giving up the perks of Academy life. We will be on our on in our desperate little apartment in the ghetto, and the mama cried.

Just a follow-up note. The woman with the press caught me this morning. I told her I wouldn’t take the machine apart unless she gave it to Temple. She has agreed, so I have brokered an old intaglio press for my buddy, Mario’s printing program. We will go to her home on Monday to take it apart. One can only hope that I don’t drop it on my toe.

Rome: DAY 43 WORKIN’ IN ROME

FORTY-THIRD DAY

WORKIN’ IN ROME

October 25 and 26

Monday was a down day.  Oh well, they happen.  I did get to the gym and we did make a great dinner in our communal kitchen, but even the wine tasted spritzi.  I spent part of the time getting ready for my paper making class at Temple U.  Italian class is Kim’s new love and she is in overdrive trying to get it all. 

We exploded into Tuesday.  Kim has decided she is not getting enough of Rome so she is taking Tuesday morning tours with a wonderful guide, Nancy, who has been recommended by lots of different friends.  She is off to see a church in Trastevere and I beg off in preparation for my one and only classroom experience with Temple students.  I first go to my secret gym to work out.  It is like a salvation for me to be there.  It is amazing to me that I still speak almost no Italian, but the people in the gym are very nice and the place seems comfortable and sort of like an old shoe.  I think I am a little nervous about teaching  the class.  I come back to the Academy and review my notes and gather all the papers that I have been collecting - my own hand paper and the paper we bought from Fabriano.  Because I am on the scooter I find a way to roll up the paper and put it in the backpack.  I hit the streets and once again central Rome is closed due to something or nothing or whatever.  The traffic is intense on the Lungotevere (how about that, the roads that run along the river are called Lungotevere even though the names change every couple of blocks) due to the shutting down of the city.  Thanks to the Roman Gods for the motorino, which allows me the chance to cut in and out of traffic, like the rest of the Roman lunatics.  I get so involved that I drive by Temple which necessities a complete circle into Borghese Park and Villa Guilia.  I look behind me and me backpack is open.  My valued paper is coming out.  In the middle of heavy traffic I am able to stop and get myself back together but it almost got away.  Back for another run on Temple U. and I find it.  After trying to find a place to park my scooter, I look behind me and the paper is gone.  Another causality of the Roman Wars!  I can’t believe it; my whole lesson plan is based on showing the paper.  I was going to compare my simple efforts to the hand made paper I bought at Fabriano.  Not to be the case, but one must muddle on. 

It turns out that the kids were great and we made some nice paper even though we had no Hollander beater, no sizing, no felts and no real vat or couching table.  All of the above are part of the whole paper making enterprise. The man who teaches the class, Mario Tellari, is such a lovely guy and everybody participates.  Every student made some paper and I gave a short history of paper that I had condensed down to half an hour.  Nobody fell asleep.  The Dean came downstairs for the last few moments.  We had fun.  I was exhausted, but our day had just begun.

We went to a friend’s house for dinner.  Christine is from SF and Gerry and Bill Brinton from Sonoma let her know we were coming.  She has a small flat near the Campo de Fiori.  It is charming and would have been ok for us but way too small.  Her friend Valentina is the major contemporary art dealer in Rome and knows the big guys; she represents Sol Lewitt and lots of others.  It was all very civilized and fun, when we leave it is close to midnight.  We walk to a bus stop (Kim’s rule – no motorino with alcohol) and sleep is welcomed.

This morning I took a group of fellows and visitors to Mario’s private studio to make monoprints.  This has been an exercise in organizing and planning. Our group was made up of seven and we took the Academy van.  I had to take a driving test from Giovanni in the early AM and I got an international driver’s license for the trip.  His studio is very like Sonoma and feels good.  People start making art and everybody made a monoprint.  I think they had fun.  It has been a busy couple of days.  We took some of Kennedy and Kelsey’s friends out to dinner a couple of weeks ago and they are back and want to go to lunch. 

We meet them at a place in Trastevere that we think we like and eat way too much.  I do recommend Checcio on Benadetta as the place where you can gain 20 pounds in any one sitting.  We drink the wine, we eat the food, they send more, we eat it.  I feel like a stuffed animal.  We stumble up the hill just in time for a nap.