Friday, November 18, 2005

Rome: DAY 66 PAPER, PAPER, PAPER

SIXTY-SIXTH DAY
PAPER, PAPER, PAPER
November 18, 2005

We had a variety of visitors during the week.  It seems that even people we don’t know want a close-up of Rome from the vantage point of our time spent here.  Friends of Kimberly’s sisters from Portland, Tom and Jack, arrive while we are in Spain.  Because of our communications gap it takes us a few days to connect.  Finally, we get on the motorino and run over to the place they are staying near the Trevi fountain.  It is an adventure finding the small alleys of Rome.  As usual, I am trying to do what all good Roman scooter drivers do, get there as fast as possible.  This means breaking every traffic law including going the wrong way on one-way streets.  As I am heading up the wrong way, a cop steps out of the doorway and I think I am cooked, but thankfully he waves me off and I turn around with no further intervention.   We put a business card on their apartment door and amazingly they find it.  They join us for lunch in the ghetto and we eat at our landlady’s famous restaurant.  They are great guys and bring a fresh perspective to our difficult week.  Jack is an emergency room Doc and Tom owns a couple of restaurants in Portland.  They buy. 


Later in the day I am picked up near the ghetto by the purported best papermaker in Rome, Roberto Meninno.  And he proves to be so after we spend the afternoon in his studio looking at his work.  It is the best small paper-making place I have ever seen.  It has excellent equipment including a first rate Hollander beater and an electric hydraulic press that is superb.  The place is neat as a pin and does not remind me of my studio.  His paper is good and his art too.  He shows me everything that he has ever made.  An interesting guy, half American but grew up in Italy. His degree is from the Rhode Island School of Design and he speaks perfect English with a wonderful Italian accent.  We will do collaboration together, I will make the paper and he will do the art.  It will be scary to work with this accomplished guy, but it must be done.  In addition, we’re planning a studio visit for the fellows at the Academy to learn more about paper-making.  He teaches at Temple, Cornell, and a Roman art school and is very busy.  I manage to further complicate the day by leaving my backpack at his studio.  He returns it the next day so I am not forced to try and find his studio, which is outside the walls of Rome.  A nice guy, very intense, mid forties; he should be showing his work at galleries.  I take a couple of pieces of paper back with me to the apartment and they are now the only adornment on our walls. 

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