Wednesday, November 9, 2005

Rome: DAYS 57-58 MOORISH MACARENA

FIFTY-SEVENTH DAY
MOORISH MACARENA
November 9-10

I was in Malaga in 1967.  We (Donna and I) had come to Spain to tour.  It was my first trip abroad.  We started in London then to Paris and finally to Spain.  I remember staying at the Palace in Madrid.  It was so beautiful and the top of the line.  In Seville, we rented a car and drove to Cordoba and then to the Alhambra and finally on to Malaga and Torremolinos.  A few rather great memories remain in my mind.  The mosque at Cordoba was a tremendous architectural treat, the Cathedral at Sevilla was big, the Alhambra with its incredible gardens, the difficult drive down from Granada to Malaga.  What a rich experience for 28-year-old neophyte traveler from Lima.  At that time although it was a busy port, Malaga was poor and dirty.  Torremolinas was the new resort town, just being built; Marrebella was somebody’s dream.   Today the town of Malaga is 600,000 people with lovely shops, clean streets and a bustling port.  While Kim went to the Alhambra, I took the city tour.  It was supposed to include Tapas.  We took the usual little tour around in the bus and made our first stop at the fort overlooking the city; underneath the fort there is a footpath that leads to an elegant palace still inhabited by the Governor.  He did not call up the hill and invite us in.  Picasso was born in Malaga but didn’t stay long. Nevertheless, the city has both a Picasso foundation and a museum that was a gift of his grand daughter Christine.  How many Picasso museums can you see?  This one has lots of his later work.  Let’s see.  I have been to the museum in Paris, the museum in Antibes, Barcelona and now Malaga as well as the countless hours at the Museum of Modern Art in New York before Guernica moved to Madrid. His work remains among my favorites even though Monet, Matisse and Van Gogh have moved to the top of my list.  The Tapas places were not very good, but it was fun to walk the streets of the pleasing old city.  I was not panhandled and the streets are very clean.  While it’s not as thrilling as San Francisco they know how to take care of their town.  The weather has cooled down and a light jacket is necessary, but the day has a wonderful blue light that makes taking pictures a pleasure.  As a connoisseur of cathedrals, I would give this one a B-. Still, it is very big.  We finish and I finally skip a lunch and wait for Kim to come back from her 9-hour tour.  She loved it and continues to drink in all of the sights and sounds of our trip.  We find that our Spanish is terrible when we go to the Internet place and have trouble telling the guy how much time we want.  It costs about 1.30E to use their terrible equipment for an hour.  Thanks for all your cards and letters, it is our way of not being homesick to keep in touch.  I am hoping that when we get to Lisbon, our hotel will be wireless and we can send our blog out along with better answers to various E-mails.  While we are under no hardship being away from home for a long time, it is sort of disorienting.  Staying in touch is one way of keeping our balance.

Riding the evening tide, we sail for Africa and there’s a fancy outdoor BBQ on the pool deck.  After dinner Kim and a couple of the other hotties take over the dance floor for some line dancing.  The cabin boys put on quite a show and Kim and her pals stay right with them with a classic Macarena  finish followed by a conga line.  I coolly stay on the sidelines because I can’t dance. I have never admitted that, but my childhood piano teacher called my Mom to tell her that he couldn’t give me piano lessons and he really needed the money.  Oh well, you can’t have it all.  Maybe I should have practiced. 

Our most exotic port is Tangier.  In the Northeast corner of Morocco, it is a town of about 800,000 people.  This must be the quintessential North African town, dirty, smelly, and interesting.  Our guide today is a devout Muslim, Yosef.  His English is great and he leads a superb tour.  There may not be much here, but the Atlantic meets the Mediterranean right at Tangiers.  The tour is formulaic with a strong finish in the souk.  This place makes Marrakech look like New York.  Fortunately, we are able to find a shop with some things that we like.  We bargain hard and win yet again.  We have won a lovely Aquamarine necklace that life would not have been worth living without.  Lucky us, the tour ends, thank God.  We get back to the ship intact, wallets still in pockets, and Allah be praised, the Kasbah lives to fight another day.


With Gibraltar on our right, Spain straight ahead and Portugal to the left, we leave what at the least is an interesting old port town.  We know little about Portugal but will know too much tomorrow.

No comments:

Post a Comment