Saturday, December 17, 2005

Rome: DAY 95 LOST CELL PHONE – MAMA MIA

LOST CELL PHONE – MAMA MIA
December 17, 2005

We have been walking by a restaurant near our apartment everyday for a couple of weeks on our way to the Internet cafe.  Some people we met on our walking tours have recommended it.  It has a contemporary feel so even though we have read no reviews, we decide to book it.  Kim stops in and they tell her they have no room and they are booked until Christmas.  Then in a moment of compassion the maitre d’ suggests that we could come if we didn’t mind sitting in a room with their big party.  They show Kim the table and it is out of the way enough for her to take it.  We decide to go early thinking we can miss most of the party action.  A good idea and normally no respectable Roman would appear before 9PM or later, but we all arrive together at about 8:30.  Most of the guests are men and they look like cops to me.  The restaurant is just down the street from the Italian Justice Ministry.  But no, not cops, it’s the Italian Army in its best civilian clothes.  At least no one appeared to be “carrying heat” but who knows.  The waiter tells us we are in his hands.  What that turns out to mean is that we are on the banquet schedule for all courses and do we want meat or fish?  In a real first, the waiter says there is so much food that we are not to eat any bread.  He was right, too much food.  First plate, secondo, secondo 2, dish after dish.  Finally, we do the wave off, no more and then they bring dessert.  It was all good, but we are on overload.  We will return to Osteria Romano when the season ends; I thought it was good until I lost consciousness on course five. 

I am convinced that we will be better observers of the human condition when we get home.  We have become practiced voyeurs during our time in Rome.  We are looking and if you are observing you see things that you might miss.  We are on the street this morning early, senses keen, watching for things to happen.  Mostly, it is the shopping crowd, women dressed to the nines, guys hauling babies.  A real scene, for once the sirens seem to be off, noise level normal and the Via Condotti too expensive to do much more than look.  We are looking for a special Cartoleria that Kimbo’s Italian teacher has told her about.  We never find the shop, directions not being a strong point in translation. Later, independently, we discover a big shop selling cards, stickers, wrapping paper, and other gift supplies less than a 5 minute walk from our apartment. The stores all have beautiful displays and are filled to the gills with merchandise. The Italians are great shopkeepers and though people are hurrying they look like they are having fun. 

Back from our expedition, I discover that my cell phone has gone missing.  In the meantime, the buzzer rings and it is a young man who lived in our apartment last year with his mom who was on a Fulbright from Dartmouth.  He spent his Junior year in high school in Rome.  He was very nostalgic, loved what we had done with the apt (they had kept it more Spartan) and gave us some great tips for neighborhood places.  After his visit we cover the apartment with a fine toothcomb trying to find the damn phone.  Losing a cell phone is nothing new for me, but it is among the most maddening things to have happen.  We try calling with the landline to see if it rings anywhere in the apartment, nothing works.  I will punish myself for a while by not buying a new one.  What planet am I on? 


Tonight the Lynch Film Festival continues with “Blue Velvet”.

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