Sunday, December 11, 2005

Rome: DAY 89 CULTURAL SLIDE

EIGHTY-NINTH DAY
CULTURAL SLIDE
December 11, 2005

We really slipped off our cultural high horse today.  We have been dying to see a movie in English, but the local movie house that shows the English language films has been very quiet.  My guess is that no one much comes.  That would certainly be the case with “Mr. and Mrs. Smith,” the loser film made to announce Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie.  These two very attractive people could command the screen with almost any but the most trite pap and cartoon style movies.  This is a real disaster.  At least give us something moderately watchable; I hope these guys did not even get a review.  Frankly, I really don’t care about who is doing what to whom, but this tiresome piece of violent garbage is very unworthy.  It won’t happen again.  I keep thinking “Kiss Kiss Bang Bang” will come.  At least it might be intelligible.

We have both been reading lots of books.

 Kimberly has turned me on to books about Rome, which is all she’s reading.  The latest of the bunch is a very pleasant book by Alan Epstein titled, “As the Romans Do”(our computer won’t underline). It is a memoir of a family from California and their move to Rome, first to the suburbs and then to the central city.  It is warm and wise with lots of toleration for the Roman way.  I must admit that one of the subjects he takes on is on my own list of most irritating Italian shopkeeper traits and that is specifically about making change.  No matter what the situation, whether at a newsstand or a fancy boutique, whenever cash is presented the people who are taking it want the exact change.  I remember this from other days in Italy when the lira was the medium of exchange.  There were about 1700 Lira to the dollar before the Euro came into being and the lira traveled up or down when the dollar was weak or strong.  It was easy to see the problem with all of those large bills and thousands of lira changing hands in each transaction. With the Euro in play, I don’t get it.  The vendor is always shocked when you hand him a twenty for a transaction that cost 11.55E.  They will immediately ask for the correct change and sort of pout if they are forced to give up change from their own register.  This even happens in the big supermarkets.  Everybody is constantly digging through his or her pockets trying to come up with exact change.  I guess the European Union is having trouble making all that coin and paper.

On a more positive note, the Roman water is the best city water I have ever tasted.  It still comes from the same sources that fueled the Aqueducts in Roman times.  What is interesting is that everyone on the street is carrying bottled water.  We buy the Frizzante but mostly drink the tap water.  It is sweet and fresh.  I think that water is one of the things that made the Roman Empire so successful.  San Francisco water is good, New York is better and Rome seems to me to be best. Kimberly swears by the water in Portland.     


I am fighting a monster cough and cold.  It is really cold and wet in Rome.  This place in January makes SF look like a suburb of Palm Springs.  Every night it’s close to freezing and it does not warm up much.  So much for the Mediterranean climate of the region.  We are lucky because the rooms in the apartment are warm and cozy.  It could be even colder.  We are reading like crazy, continuing our exploration and missing our other lives some of the time.

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