THE
VATICAN WINS
January
2-3, 2006
The
weather in Naples makes Rome look like paradise. My first train trip today on the Eurostar
from Roma Termini to Napoli Centrale was uneventful. While it was fast, the train felt very much
like other trains. I guess I was
thinking of something more futuristic and glamorous. My arrival seemed very
chaotic and Italian. The terminal was
jammed, very busy and bustling with lines for everything. Because it was raining, the taxi line was
rather long and because I did not make a hotel reservation, it was necessary to
figure out where to stay. This is the
kind of event that is hard for me without the language. I was thinking that there would be a tourist
bureau within steps of the station or in the station but that was not the
case. My friend Peter from the Academy
had left me a message about what to do in Naples and where he had stayed with
his parents there. When I finally got a cab I simply said, Hotel Excelsior,
counting on Peter’s Mom to have chosen wisely.
I am writing from my room overlooking the
harbor in what is the nicest hotel I have been in so far this trip. Thank you Steve and Barbara Mazur; you have
good taste. My first exploration in a dripping rain was across to the Castel
Dell’Ovo. Because this is the tourist
part of town, the waterfront is lined with other luxury hotels and many places
to eat. I slipped over the Castel
causeway to get lunch and returned to my hotel as the weather is just too
crummy to tour. They say that tomorrow
will be better. I wish I knew who “they” were; the Concierge tells me that it
has been raining steadily for 15 days.
The only funny thing that happened while here so far is my losing
attempt to order a movie in the room.
They have just installed a new system and it does not work. Maybe I’m lucky because the movie “The
Longest Yard” with Adam Sandler was the best thing on the list. Maybe they won’t fix it. Not only that, but Internet access is very
expensive from my room. Still the Via
Partenope would be lovely in the sun. I
have been led to believe by many Romans that Naples is famous for pickpockets
and thieves of all kinds. I am hoping I
succeed in keeping my few things out of their hands. I will be here for a few
days while Kimberly tours in the North with her Whitney and friend Amy.
New
Year’s night we were hunting for a place in Rome to go to dinner and ended up
because of the rain close to our apartment in the Ghetto. Our landlady owns the most famous restaurant
in the neighborhood, but it was entirely booked and unavailable so we ended up
at a little Pizzeria just down the street.
They have a full menu but nothing great.
Kimberly was leaving early and we wanted to keep it simple. As we were preparing to leave I thought I saw
a friend of mine from squash at the University Club. Sure enough when I called out his name, it
was Graham Taylor and his wife and kids in Rome for New Year’s Eve. I love that kind of surprise. Graham, an American lawyer, is from Australia
and his wife is a dermatologist practicing in Marin. They are collectors of fine art and while I
have not seen their collection, I know that many of the artists they like are
top drawer. They invited me for dinner
at the apartment that they rented on the Internet. It was only steps from my place to Piazza
Margana. It is what is called a “short let” and is very large for Rome. It has four bedrooms and a great
kitchen. Dr. Nancy with help from kids
and friends threw together a fun dinner.
Her daughter Aleisha is going to Middlebury in the fall. Their son John is entering his sophomore year
in high school at a private school in Australia outside Melbourne. They have with them a pal, Chris, who will be
in London for the coming year. A nice
bunch. I took them to the Campo de Fiori for an after dinner walk and drink,
then back to our place for a look. The
two spots should not be compared.
I am sort
of saying my goodbyes in Rome and my pal, Mario Telari, printmaker
extraordinaire took me to lunch in Trastevere. His favorite place is Augusto,
mentioned several times before. It is
cheap, he knows the owner and the food is good.
He lived in Trastevere for over 30 years and knows every place and
person on these winding little streets.
After lunch we went for a coffee to his old bar where he was greeted
with kisses and hugs all around. There
is no question in this part of town, it is who you know. Maybe it is the same everywhere but Italians
love to connect which is a very special part of their national
personality. Maybe our country is too
big for that, but I think it happens on a smaller level at home, too.
Just a
footnote. You cannot mail postcards in
Italian mailboxes with Vatican Postal stamps.
Kim found this out the hard way.
She is finally doing her postcards to her family and bought lots of
stamps from the Vatican. When she showed
them to me I told her they had to go back to the Vatican to be mailed. She did not believe me, but finally called
her buddy at the Gate of the American Academy only to find I was right. They will disappear if dropped into Italia
Post boxes. My job after their departure
was to ride to the Vatican on the Motorino and find a post box. My buddy,
Mario, saved me the trouble and showed me a little known Vatican Poste box in a
building the Vatican owns in Trastevere - what a guy. Many people in Rome who know that Italian
Poste is not as reliable use the Vatican Poste.
We are learning everyday.
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