Rome: DAY 118 GENIUS IN MY HANDS

GENIUS IN MY HANDS

January 9, 2006

I guess you could call this my typical Roman day.  The usual, the good, the bad and the totally impossible are what make this trip so great and testing all at the same time.  It is later in the evening than I usually write.  We have been watching “American Splendor”, on our computer.  We had seen it before on the big screen, but it had a sweet luster even on the computer.  Watching movies on the computer, especially one with a 12” screen is not easy; you must pay attention.  The sound sucks and the picture is rotten but when you get a good film it doesn’t matter.  The everyman nature of Harvey Pekar, a guy you couldn’t stand for more then 10 minutes feels like the truth.  No review here but a nice ending to a strange day. 

I was determined to close my bank account today.  It did not happen.  The bank manager and I had one of those seminal moments that only can happen when two cultures collide. I kept thinking throughout our discussion that I was the customer.  I am not exactly sure what he was thinking, but it didn’t have much to do with  “customer”.  More likely, why do I have to deal with his guy?  At one point in our discussion he said, “I do not have any obligation to speak to you in English.  I will not close your account “.  My response is probably not exact but it had something to do with me saying, “Why are you being so rude to me, all I want to do is close my account”.  This was followed by his saying, “If you don’t bring in all your unwritten checks, I will never close your account.  This is not America, it is Italy and we have our rules”.  I will return tomorrow to do exactly as he has suggested.  There is no way to overcome this Italian triumph.  It reminds me of a cop who has the power.  In retrospect, I don’t think opening the bank account was a very good idea.

I spent the morning with my friend, Mario Telari, printmaker, teacher and new friend.  I have asked Mario to come to San Francisco so that I may honor him with the same generosity that he has shown me.  We went to the Gabinetto of Prints and Drawings at the Farnesina Palace.  It is not the one that is now the French Embassy in Campo de Fiori but the one that the Chigi family built with them on the Trastevere side of the Tiber.  He had called in advance to arrange a special showing and they had gotten out all of the best things for me to see.  I was regaled by and actually held Piranesi prints, a Goya artist book, A. Durer drypoints and a fantastic Rembrandt print.  We looked at dozens of things from the 1400’s on, all prints on hand made paper.  What a moment for me. So special and delivered by a teacher who knew all the answers and all the history.  A wonderful couple of hours in a beautiful palace.  After we looked at the prints, Mario took me to the presentation hall, up a flight of marble stairs done in perspective with frescos on the ceiling.  The hall was painted in trompe l’oeil.  Mario explained that the frescos were done as if the floor never existed and we were looking at Rome from a terrace.  It was extraordinary.  Then to the drawing room for the piece de résistance, a Raphael fresco that was realized for the Pope.  Pope who, I can’t say but I bet he loved it.  It was a Roman moment. 

Kim came back from her morning of touring churches about Mary Magdalene in the same mood, feeling good about our time here and trying to get all of our lists done for our departure.  It keeps on happening, the juxtaposition of the really unbelievable and the trial of no language and cultural differences.  What will I do without this incredible stimulation?  Even with the most difficult Bank Manager this place is like a motion picture that never ends.  It is not easy for me but neither is golf. 

Rome: DAYS 116-117 BEFANA RULES

BEFANA RULES

January 7-8

Kimberly, Whitney, and Amy came back from Venice on Friday evening in high spirits.  They had a good time in both Florence and Venice.  The only thing that marred their great adventure happened after they got off the train in Rome.  Friday was a general holiday in Italy.  It is the celebration of Befana or what we call the Epiphany.  Italy is a Catholic country and this holiday is a big one.  The witch called Befana comes around to all the children and gives them presents.  That is about all I know except that I knew that the streets would be filled with people and that all stores would be locked up tight.  When the group of three from Venice tried to get on the bus at the Termini it was jammed with the Holiday throngs and it took them a long uncomfortable and traffic filled ride back to get to the apartment.  In addition, they had toured hard and were exhausted.  On top of that the girls were leaving very early the next day.  We stayed home and ate pizza that Kim and I brought in from one of the zillion pizza joints.  At least they were open.  It seems they have a lot of holidays.  One of my Italian friends reminded me that we do too.  By Saturday morning everything was open again.

My buddy from the Academy, Romano, aged 145 picked the kids up at 5:30 AM for the trip to the airport.  He worked at the Academy for 30 years and retired only to find that he didn’t have enough to do.  He has started a car service from Rome to the airport well under market rates.  His old car seems to make it fine and we benefit from the deal.  Kim loves that they had a good time.  She is an exuberant guide and I know Whitney liked the time with her Mom. 

The weather is cold but sunny and I am starting to feel that my cold/cough is relenting a bit. Friday, in my haste to read my E-mails, I have somehow stuck the AOL portion of the computer so that the Write and Address portions are not working.  This creates a major problem as we are trying to have a garage sale/cocktail party for our many Roman friends and acquaintances.  All of their addresses are on the computer and we cannot access them.  I drag the computer up to the Academy and a friend and I try to figure out what happened.  No luck and so I give it in for the day.  When I called Diane Blattner, she advised me to try turning off the computer and rebooting everything.  It sounded so right and it was and we are back in business now. 

It feels like we are on the way out of here.  Friends are coming to say goodbye and it is all getting a little sappy.  Robert, a Fellow at the Academy, comes down today for lunch.  He just accepted the associate directorship of a museum specializing in Islamic art in Hawaii.  It is the former Hawaiian estate of Doris Duke and he will be going there after his fellowship ends in July.  We are all excited for him.  Jobs for academics are hard to find and this seems perfect.  We take him to lunch at my favorite spot mentioned many times, Sora Margherita.  It is this place that demands you to join and become a member of the restaurant.  It is so profoundly Italian and I love it.  Kim thinks the food is just OK but humors me.  It is always packed (cheap) and the food comes quickly.  They are not unhappy when you leave, as there is always someone to take your place no matter what time it is. For the usual reasons of language, my order is mistaken and I am served meatballs and lamb chops for lunch.  Just what I needed, two lunches.  Everybody pitches in and it all gets eaten.  I would not miss this place on your trip to Rome.  It is authentic in every way.  There can’t be too many more like it in Italy.  It is in the ghetto and in every guidebook. 

We have a big week in front of us trying to close out our affairs here.  I have now been advised that the bank account that I fought so hard to get must be closed, as an overseas account is a red flag for the IRS.  It was probably more trouble than it was worth, but I liked having it.  The motorino must be returned and secure boxes must be packed and loose ends tied up.  Kim is cool and I am trying to be cool.  We will get it done.  For these last several days Rome still is at our feet.  We have a full schedule of touring and seeing, talking and eating, standing in lines, fighting through crowds and enjoying the Roman life.  

Rome: DAY 115 NAPLES AND ROMA

NAPLES AND ROMA

January 6, 2006

My return from Naples via a new and faster Eurostar was uneventful.  Because today is a holiday in all of Italy, the train yesterday was completely full with vacationers.  I was lucky enough to be in first class as all the seats in the train were taken. 

Naples was ok.  The food was great and the hotel a pleasant interlude from our apartment in Rome.  On the morning of my return, I decided to go first to the Archeological Museum and from there to the train station.  Isn’t it the Italian way that combines the best and worst of experiences? The Museum which is mainly the treasure house of the remains of Pompeii and Herculaneum was monumental in scale and would really require a couple of days to get through.  The taxi driver from the hotel was a nightmare and a rip-off.  Oh well, it doesn’t matter and I am getting used to it.  Not only did he overcharge me, but he also lied about the price and at the end did the usual by pretending that he didn’t speak English.  He spoke English earlier, but somehow it deserted him when it came time to tell me how much he really wanted for the trip.

Naples is a big city with lots of terrible traffic and totally different from Rome.  Every single vehicle runs the lights and the major streets are like parking lots.  On the other hand the setting is beautiful and on the ocean.  I would go back if only to get Kimbo into that Museum.  

Rome: DAYS 111-112 THE VATICAN WINS

THE VATICAN WINS

January 2-3, 2006

The weather in Naples makes Rome look like paradise.  My first train trip today on the Eurostar from Roma Termini to Napoli Centrale was uneventful.  While it was fast, the train felt very much like other trains.  I guess I was thinking of something more futuristic and glamorous. My arrival seemed very chaotic and Italian.  The terminal was jammed, very busy and bustling with lines for everything.  Because it was raining, the taxi line was rather long and because I did not make a hotel reservation, it was necessary to figure out where to stay.  This is the kind of event that is hard for me without the language.  I was thinking that there would be a tourist bureau within steps of the station or in the station but that was not the case.  My friend Peter from the Academy had left me a message about what to do in Naples and where he had stayed with his parents there. When I finally got a cab I simply said, Hotel Excelsior, counting on Peter’s Mom to have chosen wisely.

I am writing from my room overlooking the harbor in what is the nicest hotel I have been in so far this trip.  Thank you Steve and Barbara Mazur; you have good taste. My first exploration in a dripping rain was across to the Castel Dell’Ovo.   Because this is the tourist part of town, the waterfront is lined with other luxury hotels and many places to eat.  I slipped over the Castel causeway to get lunch and returned to my hotel as the weather is just too crummy to tour.  They say that tomorrow will be better. I wish I knew who “they” were; the Concierge tells me that it has been raining steadily for 15 days.   The only funny thing that happened while here so far is my losing attempt to order a movie in the room.  They have just installed a new system and it does not work.  Maybe I’m lucky because the movie “The Longest Yard” with Adam Sandler was the best thing on the list.  Maybe they won’t fix it.  Not only that, but Internet access is very expensive from my room.  Still the Via Partenope would be lovely in the sun.  I have been led to believe by many Romans that Naples is famous for pickpockets and thieves of all kinds.  I am hoping I succeed in keeping my few things out of their hands. I will be here for a few days while Kimberly tours in the North with her Whitney and friend Amy. 

New Year’s night we were hunting for a place in Rome to go to dinner and ended up because of the rain close to our apartment in the Ghetto.  Our landlady owns the most famous restaurant in the neighborhood, but it was entirely booked and unavailable so we ended up at a little Pizzeria just down the street.  They have a full menu but nothing great.  Kimberly was leaving early and we wanted to keep it simple.  As we were preparing to leave I thought I saw a friend of mine from squash at the University Club.  Sure enough when I called out his name, it was Graham Taylor and his wife and kids in Rome for New Year’s Eve.  I love that kind of surprise.  Graham, an American lawyer, is from Australia and his wife is a dermatologist practicing in Marin.  They are collectors of fine art and while I have not seen their collection, I know that many of the artists they like are top drawer.  They invited me for dinner at the apartment that they rented on the Internet.  It was only steps from my place to Piazza Margana. It is what is called a “short let” and is very large for Rome.  It has four bedrooms and a great kitchen.  Dr. Nancy with help from kids and friends threw together a fun dinner.  Her daughter Aleisha is going to Middlebury in the fall.  Their son John is entering his sophomore year in high school at a private school in Australia outside Melbourne.  They have with them a pal, Chris, who will be in London for the coming year.  A nice bunch. I took them to the Campo de Fiori for an after dinner walk and drink, then back to our place for a look.  The two spots should not be compared.

I am sort of saying my goodbyes in Rome and my pal, Mario Telari, printmaker extraordinaire took me to lunch in Trastevere. His favorite place is Augusto, mentioned several times before.  It is cheap, he knows the owner and the food is good.  He lived in Trastevere for over 30 years and knows every place and person on these winding little streets.  After lunch we went for a coffee to his old bar where he was greeted with kisses and hugs all around.  There is no question in this part of town, it is who you know.  Maybe it is the same everywhere but Italians love to connect which is a very special part of their national personality.  Maybe our country is too big for that, but I think it happens on a smaller level at home, too. 

Just a footnote.  You cannot mail postcards in Italian mailboxes with Vatican Postal stamps.  Kim found this out the hard way.  She is finally doing her postcards to her family and bought lots of stamps from the Vatican.  When she showed them to me I told her they had to go back to the Vatican to be mailed.  She did not believe me, but finally called her buddy at the Gate of the American Academy only to find I was right.  They will disappear if dropped into Italia Post boxes.  My job after their departure was to ride to the Vatican on the Motorino and find a post box. My buddy, Mario, saved me the trouble and showed me a little known Vatican Poste box in a building the Vatican owns in Trastevere - what a guy.  Many people in Rome who know that Italian Poste is not as reliable use the Vatican Poste.  We are learning everyday.